Homeward bound

The Azores dawned wet and windy, and there was a question mark as to whether we would be able to dock, because of the wind speed and direction. But we made it. Since we were last here, the authorities have put up a purpose built cruise liner terminal. It has been done very wel, as it is effectively two stories high, but is no high the the sea front. This means that no-one has had their view spoilt.
Last time we were here we did the island tour, and very interseting and enjoyable it was. From Ponta Delgado, we went north to the other coast, and then slowly to the south. On the way, we passed a tea plantation(very enjoyable tea to drink), and some marvellous vistas. One of the items the Azores are most proud of are their pineapples, which they claim to be the sweetest around. They are much darker than we are used to seeing in the UK, and are certainly tasty. The trip ends at the botannical gardens, in the crater of a dormant volcano. Lunch and a tasting of the waters follows-if one is into that sort of thing!.
On this occasion, we decided to explore the town, and very relaxing it was too. Firstly to the market, where we found some unusual fish for sale, including one brilliant red one which I was assured was quite tasty. Next a stroll through relatively traffic free streets and some interesting churches. We had a sit and a coffee/beer in one of the squares, to watch the world go by. It did, but mostly fellow passengers! The wind started to pick up, and it became a little uncomfortable, so we set off to find some lunch (one must respect ones stomach!!). At the start of our jaunt, we had sought advice from the local tourist office on this subject, and were told that one of the best fish places in town was in fact next to the cruise terminal. So we sauntered back and found it.
They were right! We had a really good fishy lunch with a bottle of Azores wine, all whilst watching the rest of the worlsd pass by.
All too soon, it was time to return to the ship. Whilst we had been ashore, the crew had been having an official sports day, and our waiters were taking part. Fortunately the dining room one the Basketball, with both of them scoring, and one of the assistants the pool. There were some very happy guys serving us at dinner!!
Before then, we had a different sort of entertainment, in the shape of setting sail. The wind speed had risen, and we needed the assistance of two tugs, as well as all the ships power, it was still something of a struggle to get us off the berth. It was only when the Pilot cutter joined in, assisting the front tug by pushing on the bow whilst it pulled, that we got clear. It took half an hour, and it was good thing that the captain had turned Black Watch, on arrival, to be bow on to the entrance. Had the winds been as they were when we sailed when we arrived, we would not have managed to get in!
Since then it has been a bit of a lumpy bumpy roller coaster as we head towards the UK. Yesterday was gale, to day a bit less but still plenty of rock and roll! The forecast is to remain the same until we are in the Channel late on Tuesday
This will be the last posting until the photographs are added. Hopefully this will be in the next 10 days or so, but we have around 1,000 or more to process.

So, to Antigua. We had been here before, in 1998, and had seen what the island could offer during that trip
On this occasion we had planned to do seperate things. Sue was to go on a trip to a private island for swimming, sunbathing and lunch. It all worked out very well, and she had a great time, and did not get back to the ship until 4.30
Ian was to go sailing.
That did not work out, because of an error made by the handling agents on the island. They had got their timings wrong, and the sailors were still on Black Watch when they should have been afloat under canvas. C'est la vie! Instead he was offered a Jeep safari at no cost to himself, with the fee paid to go sailing being refunded. It was quite enjoyable, but it finished up on a beach!! No real consolation, but it did fill in some time. Ian then returned to the ship, and successfully took part in shipboard activities, winning the quoits and the quiz.
Next stop was Phillipsburg, on St Maarten. This is a curious island, in that half is run by the French, and half by the Dutch. It is said that they split the island many, many years ago by a very simple method. Two officials met at a given spot, and then set off walking in opposite directions until they met up again. That decided what was french, and what was dutch. The dutch side is the busy one, where the main port and cruise liner berths are. Whilst we were there, two very large cruise boats came in, and also one of the sailing clippers. In addition, a largish Dutch Navy ship arrived.
One of the options here was to go sailing in a former Americas Cup 12 metre yacht. Ian had jumped at the chance, and found it to be an exhilarating experience. He said that given a chance, he would do it again. Everyone who went had to work for their seat, as the only paid crew were the skipper and two deckhands. Everything, except the helming, had to be done by the guests. It is amazing how time flies when one is enjoying oneself, and two hours on the water just whizzed by.
Whilst Ian was doing this, Sue went shopping. This island is shoppers paradise, and she found herself bumping into as many crew members as fellow travellers whilst doing her walk about. Those in need of retail therapy are in heaven in this town.
Unfortunately (or maybe for some, fortunately) we had an early departure for our Atlantic crossing (six days at sea) to our last port of call, Ponta Delgado in the Azores.
Both of us have picked up colds. Sue was first, and she has a right stinker. Now Ian has got it as well, though he is just in the early stages. Not man flu yet! Thank goodness we only have the ships entertainment to miss, rather than some interesting excursion or port of call.
We are due into the Azores on Sunday, so the signs are there that things are drawing to an end. To day is Monday, the skies have gone a bit grey, and the sea rather lumpy. At present the temperature is holding up, but that cannot last!

Today is catch-up time, as a lot seems to have happened in a short while.
Tuesday was Barbados, and we had a great day out. We went on a cataraman cruise, sailing and swimming with turtles!
Having motored out of Bridgetown on the cat. the sails were hoisted and off we went. After about an hour, we dropped anchor, donned goggles and a life vest, and went over the side to swim with a group of turtles. It was amazing fun, and to be recommended.
About 80 people on board, some 30 off the Black Watch, a group off a large American cruise boat, and a handful of Spanish girls from a hotel. All mixed in together and had a good time.
Half an hour or so later, it was up anchor and a sail further up the coast. This time we moored just off a beach, when the pre-lunch options were to swim in the sea, walk on the beach, or put the snorkel gear back on and swim to a reef to view the wild life. After this came the important part of the day- a rum punch or two, and lunch. A bit of a rest, and it was, regrettably time to sail back to port.
In the evening, the famous Barbados Police Band came on board to give a concert. This was held outside, at the stern of the ship, under the stars. Magical.
Wednesday dawned dull and rainy, and it was another port. This time castries in St Lucia. We had not planned anything, except to do our own thing.
After the rain had cleared, around 1030, we left the ship, and walked round the harbour to the town. It was a bit busy, as there were four ships in. On our side was Black Watch, and the very large (4,500 passenger) Adventure of the Seas. On the other side, nearer the town were Serenade of the Seas (3,500 pass.) and Thomsons Destiny (900 pass.) ahving strolled, and done the sights and a bit of retail therapy, we sought advice re lunch from the tourist information desk. Their recommendation was to take the water taxi back to just behind where we were parked, and to ask the boat handler for the 'Coal Hole'. This turned out to be an excellent restaurant tucked away in a cove, right on the shore. It was far enough away from everything to be lovely and peaceful, with really good food. The dining area was on a roofed verandah, right at the waters edge. It was very popular with particularly the local business community, if the number of BMWs parked outside gave a clue. They managed to fit in the two of us, and gave us a great time. All too soon, it was time to catch the taxi back. Black Watch then had to join the queue of ships to leave Castries, with only Destiny remaining.
A hard nights steaming lay ahead, to allow us to arrive on time, on Thursday, at Basseterre, St. Kitts. (Which we duly did) Here our trip was to be an 'around the island' tour, using, for most of the journey, a train. This train rauns on tracks originally laid to haul sugar cane from the fields to the factory(which closed in 2005). Special carriages have been built, with two decks. The downstairs is all enclosed and air conditioned, the upstairs is roofed, but otherwise open to the elements.
The track follows the coast, with detours inland, and proved to be wonderful way to seeing just about everything. It does not go all the way round, only 18miles. The other 10 have to be done by road. The on-board guide was very good, and also there was enterainment by a group of singers. An excellent time was had by all, and we were sad to leave such a marvellous form of transport after two hours on board (though the rum punches and banana daiquiris might have had something to do with that!).
We had did a bit of strolling after we got back to the pier, but as it was then around 33C we went back to the ship to cool down. In the afternoon, we went back into Basseterre, and walked around the town, to see what we could see. A little retail therapy followed, for Ian this time!, plus a local beer each.
On reflection, we enjoyed Barbados, and the locals seemed pleased to see us. Castries was real laid back Caribbean, though some of the shop prices were a bit excessive. St Kitts, away from the town was friendly, but some of the shopkeepers put people off.
Next stop Antigua, so let us see what that brings.

Following our excursion to Costa Rica, and some time at sea, we arrived in Aruba in the Dutch Antilles. Technically, as we discovered, this is a desert island, as its average rainfal is 20 inches a year. It is 20 miles long by 6miles wide, and the capital is Orajestadt, which is also its main port(and popular with cruise liners!)
The rainy season ending April 2010 produced some 80 inches, and so far in this season it has been 120inches!! So much for a desert island!. One side effect is that the all the cactii, and there are plenty of them, are rotting whilst growing, as they cannot offload the water they take up.
In the morning we took a tour of the island, which included a trip on a submersible out to the reef and well preserved second world war wreck. By doing this, we saw most of the northern part of the island. The rweck is a German cargo ship that came into Oranjestadt in September 1939, as it had been instructed to seek a neutral port. It joind three others. After sitting around for a few months, one of them made a break for Germany, and managed to get back. Emboldened by this two others made a break for it, but a British was waiting and they were both sunk before getting into the Atlantic. The final one tried to sit it out, but the authorities ordered it to leave. The captain decided to scuttle the ship and surrender his crew for internment. She stayed inact until a violent storm in 2004 broke the ship into two parts. It sits in about 50ft of water. Whilst driving to get on the sub., we passeda small wreck on the shore. Our guide explained that this had been sunk as an artificial reef in 2005, well offshore in 60ft of water. Another big storm occured in 2006, and when it was over, thye found the wreck where it is now, back on shore!
During the trip, the guide mentioned that in the afternoon, in the town off San Nicholas, at the southern end of the island, there was to be a carnival She siad it was second only to Rio, though we have heard that before. We decided to go for a look-see, and took the local bus. A very helpful driver dropped us off as near as he could, at about 2pm, and showed us where to get the return bus from. We walked the rest of the way.
It was obvious from the crowds that something was going to happen, so we found a good vantage point in the shade, and waited (patiently!). Nothing seemed to be happening, and all the locals around us were obviously set for the long haul. By now we had been waiting about an hour, enjoying the atmosphere, so we sought advice. The most sober! said she expected the parade to pass around 5pm, but pointed out the direction it was coming from. We walked to towards it, and found it after about a mile, moving at the proverbial snails pace. (A snail would actually have moved faster!). Having found another shady place-someones sunshade!- we started to enjoy it, and was it colourful-and NOISY! Everyone was having a fantastic time, and liquid, both hard and soft, was flowing freely. It was also very hot.
WE saw the first six or seven floats pass, and that took an hour. One that did pass had a portaloo on wheels being towed behind for the use of the dancers, and it was being used, judging by the dancing queue!
Being a little concerned as to getting back the ship, we walked slowly back to our starting point, overtaking everything that had passed us. By the time we reached our original vantage point, so had the head of the parade. After blagging a beer each of the Budweiser stand, we set off to find our return transport.
That was an excitement in its self. The driver must have been practising for some grand prix, as we do not think we ever before gone round a corner in a service bus with all four wheels scrubing for traction, and the tyres screaming. We survived! though it was an unforgetable experience.
Next stop was Willemtstradt on Curacao. Unfortunately it was Sunday. Not only was it Sunday, but apparently there was carnival somehwere on the island, though nobody found it. The whole place was shut!. We did not chose to do a trip, as none really looked interesting, so we wandered and enjoyed the wildly coloured buildings. It was though very hot, with no wind, and the temperature was well over 30C. After a bit of shopping and a beer, we sought the airconditioned sancturary of the ship(as did most others.
Next stop Bridgetown, Barbados and swimming with turtles.

Since the last entry, we have managed three ports of call.
Costa Rica came first, at Puerto Limon. This is a combined port, in that it has a small container quay, capable of taking one good sized or two smaller container ships, and a jetty which can handle two cruise boats. About five miles further up the coast is Puerto Moins, which is a container port with four berths.
Costa Rica's principal exports are still coffee and bananas, closely followed by pineapples. They also make quite a lot of high tec' goods. Costa Rica is not a very large country, sited at the southern end of Central America, north of Panama. It has two coast lines, on the west the Pacific, on the east the Caribbean.
We saw quite a bit of the Caribbean coast as our trip started by going south to a banana plantation and processing plant. We then changed to a train, and went north along the sea front. Most of this coast is empty, as there are no roads. Our coaches were restored originals, with bench seats and no windows. The trees between us and the beaches were mostly coconut palms, but the fruit is left to rot. There is no way to harvest the nuts, and get them to market. The balance of the coast is rain forest. What properties we did see were squatter shacks. After about an hour on the train came a transfer via the coaches to the natural waterways and canals to see what we could find in the way of wildlife. Mostly birds and iguanas, plus the occasional howler monkey ( and they are very noisy!). Towards the end of our trip, a terrible row broke out somewhere on shore. Our guides searched hard for the source, which turned out to be two packs of howler monkeys having a verbal go at each other from either side of the river. We were in the middle, and it was deafening. All too soon it came to an end, and, after an exhilarating high speed run down the river, it was onto the coaches and back to the ship. We had, in fact, done more than we should have, as we were over an hour late back. We had a great time.

The Panama Canal is 49 miles long, including the entrance and exit channels.
It took 34 years to build, from 1880 and being completed in 1914. Originally started by Ferdinand de Lessops, who built the Suez Canal, it was completed by the Americans. De Lessops went bust, and ruined his health in trying. Over 20,000 people died in the attempts, mainly from maleria, yellow fever, and of course accidents.
The maximum size of vessels the Canal can handle at present is around 100,000 tons. However the Canal Company (wholly owned by the Panamanian Govt.) is building two new super locks, one at each end, to handle the largest boats imagined. Each of these new locks will lift a vessel the full 84 feet in one go.
When entering a lock, a ship is moved forward by its own power. It is held in the center by 'mules'. These are electrically powered locomotives, each weighing 50 tons. These move in time with the ship, under the command of the Canal Pilot on the bridge of the transittee. This transit is the only time that a ship's master hands control of his ship to an outside body. Everywhere else in the world, the master is in charge, taking advice from the pilot.
Approaching from the Pacific side, the first locks are the Miraflores. Two locks, which each raise a ship 28 feet. Next is the Miraflores lake, 1.2 miles long, and then the Pedro Miguel lock, which takes ships up another 28 feet. This is the highest water level, and the ships move through the 8 mile long Gaillard Cut into the Gatun lake. Like the Miraflores lake, this is man-made.
having crossed the lake, the Gatun locks take ships back to sea-level in a flight of three successive locks. The last section of the canal is the channel taking the ship into the Caribbean, passing the port of Colon.
We made a fast transit, entering at about 7.15, and exiting at just after 2pm. The normal time is 8 to 12 hours. The best parts are the locking up and down, particularly the down if one is following another vessel. On this occasion, we were at the head of the west bound convoy, so had the locks to ourselves.
Having left the Canal, Black Watch turned north, destination Puerto Limon in Costa Rica.

As thought, Manta was something of a non event. We have been there before, and did the only reasonable excursion then, which is a ride to the nearby town of Montechristi in open sided buses. A band sits on the roof, playing as one goes. Montechristi is the principal producer of Panama hats. They do not come from Panama!
We took ourselves of to the local craft market, just to get off the ship for a spell. It was very hot, at 35C, with high humidity. We did a little to support the local economy, and then returned to the snactuary which is air-conditioned. For enertainment, being such sad people, along with many others we watched the unloading of the next door ship. Apparently it was a mother ship to the huge fishing fleet based in Manta, and had been at sea for five months. The antics of the dockworkers was the source of our amusement.
Next stop was Balboa. This is the port at the Pacific end of the Panama Canal. For us it was a tender port, as the only berths are for conatiner ships.. A huge number of container ships transit the canal, but only those up to 100,000 tons. Bigger ones, and much smaller ones, off load in Balboa, and the containers make the transit by train.
Our trip ashore was to the viewing platform by the Miraflores Lock, to see the workings and the history, and then to the old Spanish Colonal part of Panama City, via the old American base from the days of the Canal Zone. The Americans finally left in 1999, on 31st December. The Panamanians have put the redundant facilities to very good use. The housing stock was sold off, and is now a sought after neighbourhood. The barrac, and office blocks have been turned over to either commercial or educational purposes. There are two universities on the site, along with six private schools which were persuaded to move out of the city centre. Their old schools are now state schools, a win win situation all round.
We had just over an hour at the visitor centre, which was not really enough time, but was adequate, and it gave us a good understanding of how things work. There was quite a lot on background to the building of the canal, and what goes into its daily operations.
The old part of the city was fascinating. Many of the buildings are in a poor state of repair, and many others are undergoing refurbishment. The Panama City authorities have given every building owner seven years from 2009 to sort out the property. If they do not, then the building will be confiscated without redress!! This ruling seems to be having the desired effect. The finished articles have commercial opportunities at street level, and residential above. These are sought after, as they are quite large, and in a good area of the city, near the sea. The owners, so we were told, usually keep the top flat for themselves.
It was another very hot, humid day. Even our guide was please to get into the air-conditioned sanctuary of the bus. She was very interesting, as she is a Mexican, married to a Panamanian, and who learnt her english as a child at school in Southampton, when her father was working at the hospital there! Her only complaint now is that she does not really get enough opportunities to practise it. Some of her words came out a little strangely, and needed a bit of work. One of the hardest for us to get to grips with was 'noons', until we worked out she meant 'nuns'.
Overall, it was a very good outing, and we were sorry it came to an end . However, we were pleased to get back to the ship, as the humidity was hitting 85% and the temperature well over 30C. Very hot and sticky.
Next is the Panama Canal itself. We are due to up anchor at around 6am, and enter the canal at about 7.45. However, knowing this Captain, it is very possible that we will be early. Let us wait and see!