The Panama Canal is 49 miles long, including the entrance and exit channels.
It took 34 years to build, from 1880 and being completed in 1914. Originally started by Ferdinand de Lessops, who built the Suez Canal, it was completed by the Americans. De Lessops went bust, and ruined his health in trying. Over 20,000 people died in the attempts, mainly from maleria, yellow fever, and of course accidents.
The maximum size of vessels the Canal can handle at present is around 100,000 tons. However the Canal Company (wholly owned by the Panamanian Govt.) is building two new super locks, one at each end, to handle the largest boats imagined. Each of these new locks will lift a vessel the full 84 feet in one go.
When entering a lock, a ship is moved forward by its own power. It is held in the center by 'mules'. These are electrically powered locomotives, each weighing 50 tons. These move in time with the ship, under the command of the Canal Pilot on the bridge of the transittee. This transit is the only time that a ship's master hands control of his ship to an outside body. Everywhere else in the world, the master is in charge, taking advice from the pilot.
Approaching from the Pacific side, the first locks are the Miraflores. Two locks, which each raise a ship 28 feet. Next is the Miraflores lake, 1.2 miles long, and then the Pedro Miguel lock, which takes ships up another 28 feet. This is the highest water level, and the ships move through the 8 mile long Gaillard Cut into the Gatun lake. Like the Miraflores lake, this is man-made.
having crossed the lake, the Gatun locks take ships back to sea-level in a flight of three successive locks. The last section of the canal is the channel taking the ship into the Caribbean, passing the port of Colon.
We made a fast transit, entering at about 7.15, and exiting at just after 2pm. The normal time is 8 to 12 hours. The best parts are the locking up and down, particularly the down if one is following another vessel. On this occasion, we were at the head of the west bound convoy, so had the locks to ourselves.
Having left the Canal, Black Watch turned north, destination Puerto Limon in Costa Rica.
Thursday, 3 March 2011
Tuesday, 1 March 2011
As thought, Manta was something of a non event. We have been there before, and did the only reasonable excursion then, which is a ride to the nearby town of Montechristi in open sided buses. A band sits on the roof, playing as one goes. Montechristi is the principal producer of Panama hats. They do not come from Panama!
We took ourselves of to the local craft market, just to get off the ship for a spell. It was very hot, at 35C, with high humidity. We did a little to support the local economy, and then returned to the snactuary which is air-conditioned. For enertainment, being such sad people, along with many others we watched the unloading of the next door ship. Apparently it was a mother ship to the huge fishing fleet based in Manta, and had been at sea for five months. The antics of the dockworkers was the source of our amusement.
Next stop was Balboa. This is the port at the Pacific end of the Panama Canal. For us it was a tender port, as the only berths are for conatiner ships.. A huge number of container ships transit the canal, but only those up to 100,000 tons. Bigger ones, and much smaller ones, off load in Balboa, and the containers make the transit by train.
Our trip ashore was to the viewing platform by the Miraflores Lock, to see the workings and the history, and then to the old Spanish Colonal part of Panama City, via the old American base from the days of the Canal Zone. The Americans finally left in 1999, on 31st December. The Panamanians have put the redundant facilities to very good use. The housing stock was sold off, and is now a sought after neighbourhood. The barrac, and office blocks have been turned over to either commercial or educational purposes. There are two universities on the site, along with six private schools which were persuaded to move out of the city centre. Their old schools are now state schools, a win win situation all round.
We had just over an hour at the visitor centre, which was not really enough time, but was adequate, and it gave us a good understanding of how things work. There was quite a lot on background to the building of the canal, and what goes into its daily operations.
The old part of the city was fascinating. Many of the buildings are in a poor state of repair, and many others are undergoing refurbishment. The Panama City authorities have given every building owner seven years from 2009 to sort out the property. If they do not, then the building will be confiscated without redress!! This ruling seems to be having the desired effect. The finished articles have commercial opportunities at street level, and residential above. These are sought after, as they are quite large, and in a good area of the city, near the sea. The owners, so we were told, usually keep the top flat for themselves.
It was another very hot, humid day. Even our guide was please to get into the air-conditioned sanctuary of the bus. She was very interesting, as she is a Mexican, married to a Panamanian, and who learnt her english as a child at school in Southampton, when her father was working at the hospital there! Her only complaint now is that she does not really get enough opportunities to practise it. Some of her words came out a little strangely, and needed a bit of work. One of the hardest for us to get to grips with was 'noons', until we worked out she meant 'nuns'.
Overall, it was a very good outing, and we were sorry it came to an end . However, we were pleased to get back to the ship, as the humidity was hitting 85% and the temperature well over 30C. Very hot and sticky.
Next is the Panama Canal itself. We are due to up anchor at around 6am, and enter the canal at about 7.45. However, knowing this Captain, it is very possible that we will be early. Let us wait and see!
We took ourselves of to the local craft market, just to get off the ship for a spell. It was very hot, at 35C, with high humidity. We did a little to support the local economy, and then returned to the snactuary which is air-conditioned. For enertainment, being such sad people, along with many others we watched the unloading of the next door ship. Apparently it was a mother ship to the huge fishing fleet based in Manta, and had been at sea for five months. The antics of the dockworkers was the source of our amusement.
Next stop was Balboa. This is the port at the Pacific end of the Panama Canal. For us it was a tender port, as the only berths are for conatiner ships.. A huge number of container ships transit the canal, but only those up to 100,000 tons. Bigger ones, and much smaller ones, off load in Balboa, and the containers make the transit by train.
Our trip ashore was to the viewing platform by the Miraflores Lock, to see the workings and the history, and then to the old Spanish Colonal part of Panama City, via the old American base from the days of the Canal Zone. The Americans finally left in 1999, on 31st December. The Panamanians have put the redundant facilities to very good use. The housing stock was sold off, and is now a sought after neighbourhood. The barrac, and office blocks have been turned over to either commercial or educational purposes. There are two universities on the site, along with six private schools which were persuaded to move out of the city centre. Their old schools are now state schools, a win win situation all round.
We had just over an hour at the visitor centre, which was not really enough time, but was adequate, and it gave us a good understanding of how things work. There was quite a lot on background to the building of the canal, and what goes into its daily operations.
The old part of the city was fascinating. Many of the buildings are in a poor state of repair, and many others are undergoing refurbishment. The Panama City authorities have given every building owner seven years from 2009 to sort out the property. If they do not, then the building will be confiscated without redress!! This ruling seems to be having the desired effect. The finished articles have commercial opportunities at street level, and residential above. These are sought after, as they are quite large, and in a good area of the city, near the sea. The owners, so we were told, usually keep the top flat for themselves.
It was another very hot, humid day. Even our guide was please to get into the air-conditioned sanctuary of the bus. She was very interesting, as she is a Mexican, married to a Panamanian, and who learnt her english as a child at school in Southampton, when her father was working at the hospital there! Her only complaint now is that she does not really get enough opportunities to practise it. Some of her words came out a little strangely, and needed a bit of work. One of the hardest for us to get to grips with was 'noons', until we worked out she meant 'nuns'.
Overall, it was a very good outing, and we were sorry it came to an end . However, we were pleased to get back to the ship, as the humidity was hitting 85% and the temperature well over 30C. Very hot and sticky.
Next is the Panama Canal itself. We are due to up anchor at around 6am, and enter the canal at about 7.45. However, knowing this Captain, it is very possible that we will be early. Let us wait and see!
Friday, 25 February 2011
Having left Callao/Lima at about 7pm, the ship sailed over night to Salaverry. This is the port for Trujillo in the northern part of Peru, and we arrived at 11am on Thursday. It is a working port, and our arrival meant that one of the ships had to stop discharging her cargo until we left, for safety reasons. She was moored on the other side of our quay, which was not very wide!!
We had initially decided not to do a trip here, but our own thing. However, having done some research, we change our minds and were able to join an excursion to some ruins connected to the peoples in the area pre the Incas. The Chimu had built an enormous city between 900AD and 1500AD called Chan Chan. The Incas conquered them around that time, and then the Spanish arrived. It was built of mud brick and has only recently been discovered. It has been estimated as covering some 20 square kilometres. Our visit started at one of the nine palaces found so far, one of the smallest! We could only see three of the five parts, and that took nearly an hour. It is estimated that the largest palace is about two and half times bigger than the one we were at. After this, we moved on to the seaside, to where the fishermen still use reed boats, and fish in the same manner as they would have done all those years ago. We were given a demonstration of how they did it, and dealt with the surf.
The final part of the tour was to a temple mound. To give an idea of just how big this city was, we had started at the palace some five kilomtres outside Trujillo, and the temple was inside the city, surrounded by modern buildings. Everone was surprised it had survived, though the guide explained it was luck rather than good judgement. Most of the foreign tourits who come to this part of Peru do so for the surfing, though the occasional cruise liners are calling. It is a holiday area for Lima, which is why there are places such as we saw available. (There was another tout, to two much larger temples on the other side of Trujillo and included the old part of the city. One of the difficulties the arrangers had faced was getting enough English speaking guides. Ours was a school teacher, and on the other coach a young man on his first guiding trip who was in the city administration. They both did very well. They were from Trujillo, but other guides, along with some of the coaches had been brought in specially from Lima. We were pleased we had done it, and having talked to those who did their own thing, found we had made the right decision
We sailed out of Salaverry at 6pm, next stop Manta in Ecuador
We had initially decided not to do a trip here, but our own thing. However, having done some research, we change our minds and were able to join an excursion to some ruins connected to the peoples in the area pre the Incas. The Chimu had built an enormous city between 900AD and 1500AD called Chan Chan. The Incas conquered them around that time, and then the Spanish arrived. It was built of mud brick and has only recently been discovered. It has been estimated as covering some 20 square kilometres. Our visit started at one of the nine palaces found so far, one of the smallest! We could only see three of the five parts, and that took nearly an hour. It is estimated that the largest palace is about two and half times bigger than the one we were at. After this, we moved on to the seaside, to where the fishermen still use reed boats, and fish in the same manner as they would have done all those years ago. We were given a demonstration of how they did it, and dealt with the surf.
The final part of the tour was to a temple mound. To give an idea of just how big this city was, we had started at the palace some five kilomtres outside Trujillo, and the temple was inside the city, surrounded by modern buildings. Everone was surprised it had survived, though the guide explained it was luck rather than good judgement. Most of the foreign tourits who come to this part of Peru do so for the surfing, though the occasional cruise liners are calling. It is a holiday area for Lima, which is why there are places such as we saw available. (There was another tout, to two much larger temples on the other side of Trujillo and included the old part of the city. One of the difficulties the arrangers had faced was getting enough English speaking guides. Ours was a school teacher, and on the other coach a young man on his first guiding trip who was in the city administration. They both did very well. They were from Trujillo, but other guides, along with some of the coaches had been brought in specially from Lima. We were pleased we had done it, and having talked to those who did their own thing, found we had made the right decision
We sailed out of Salaverry at 6pm, next stop Manta in Ecuador
Tuesday was another day. It started for us at 5am, and it was raining. Neither of us had slept that well, and Ian was suffering from the altitude. So much so that he did not want any breakfast, and those that know him will realise things were bad. However, after a five minute spell on oxygen, he felt much better. He was not the worst off though, as two of the party had had to be taken to hospital during the night, though they were able to jion us in time to leave.
The hotel was left at 6.00 in minibuses, as the strat of the journey to Machu Piccu (MP) was by road. This part of the trip took a couple of hours, until we arrived in the town of Olyantambo. This is where we began the train journey to Aguas Calientes, the nearest town to MP. Aguas Calientes can only be accessed by rail. It has no road access at all.Much of the railway is alongside a river, and it was in full spate. Apparently, on the day before, the trains could not run, because the river level was some five feet higher. To say it was a raging torrent was an understatement.
Two hours later, and we reached the terminus and transfered to midibuses was the last part, up to MP. Initially following the river vally, the road crossed the river and started the zigzag climb up the mountainside. The climb took about half an hour.
MP is on a finger of land, at a height of 9,000ft. The river, some 1,000ft below, runs around three of the sides. A climb on foot of about ten minutes takes one to the highest point of the city, to a natural view point. Nether Ian or Sue were having any difficulty with any of this, as MP is some 2,000ft lower than Cusco.
The tour of the best bits of the city lasted about two hours, and done in pouring rain. Despite this, it was fascinating. MP is unique in that it was never discovered by the Spanish, and effectively disappeared from view in the late 1500s. It was accidently rediscovered in 1902 by an Andean farmer looking for more land, but nothing more happened until 1911 when an American explorer, Hiram Bingham was shown it by a local headman. He was actually looking for the Lost City of the Incas, which in fact is much further east, practically in Brazil (and had been found by the Spanish around 1580). He returned with a much larger expedition in 1912, and started to map and clear the site.
The railway was built by the Peruvian government in the 1930s, to allow the transport of goods and foodstuffs from the fertile interior to Cusco and then to the arid coastal areas. It actually runs from Cusco, but appalling weather in late December 2010 has closed in parts. It is not due to reopen until late March/early April 2011. It is narrow guage, and during the tourist season runs passenger trains during the day. At night it becomes a freight line, carrying everything for the area of Aguas Caliente and MP, from food to souvenirs, fuel and vehicles. Even construction plant and machinery has to go this way.
After having lunch, there was an option to revisit MP if one wanted, but by now it was raining even harder, so we took a shuttle bus back down the mountain, to explore something of the town, and to await our train (1730) back to Olyantambo. There were a few problems on the way back. it should have taken one and half hours, but took two and half. The track is singler line with passing loops. The uphill train has to wait for the downhill one at each of these, and sometimes it was a long wait. The train crew were very goods. We had a costumed dancer at one point, and a fashion show of beautiful alpaca wool clothes at another. The models were two of the train crew, and the dancer another member.
At the teminus, we transferred back to buses for the return to Cusco, getting back at 10.00pm. Dinner was waiting for those of us who could face it. It had been a long tiring but most enjoyable day. Had the weather been kinder it would have been fantastic.
Following a good nights sleep, departure from the hotel to the airport was at 11.30am, finally getting back to the ship at about four o'clock.
We are so glad we did the trip. It was tiring but an experience not to be missed.
The hotel was left at 6.00 in minibuses, as the strat of the journey to Machu Piccu (MP) was by road. This part of the trip took a couple of hours, until we arrived in the town of Olyantambo. This is where we began the train journey to Aguas Calientes, the nearest town to MP. Aguas Calientes can only be accessed by rail. It has no road access at all.Much of the railway is alongside a river, and it was in full spate. Apparently, on the day before, the trains could not run, because the river level was some five feet higher. To say it was a raging torrent was an understatement.
Two hours later, and we reached the terminus and transfered to midibuses was the last part, up to MP. Initially following the river vally, the road crossed the river and started the zigzag climb up the mountainside. The climb took about half an hour.
MP is on a finger of land, at a height of 9,000ft. The river, some 1,000ft below, runs around three of the sides. A climb on foot of about ten minutes takes one to the highest point of the city, to a natural view point. Nether Ian or Sue were having any difficulty with any of this, as MP is some 2,000ft lower than Cusco.
The tour of the best bits of the city lasted about two hours, and done in pouring rain. Despite this, it was fascinating. MP is unique in that it was never discovered by the Spanish, and effectively disappeared from view in the late 1500s. It was accidently rediscovered in 1902 by an Andean farmer looking for more land, but nothing more happened until 1911 when an American explorer, Hiram Bingham was shown it by a local headman. He was actually looking for the Lost City of the Incas, which in fact is much further east, practically in Brazil (and had been found by the Spanish around 1580). He returned with a much larger expedition in 1912, and started to map and clear the site.
The railway was built by the Peruvian government in the 1930s, to allow the transport of goods and foodstuffs from the fertile interior to Cusco and then to the arid coastal areas. It actually runs from Cusco, but appalling weather in late December 2010 has closed in parts. It is not due to reopen until late March/early April 2011. It is narrow guage, and during the tourist season runs passenger trains during the day. At night it becomes a freight line, carrying everything for the area of Aguas Caliente and MP, from food to souvenirs, fuel and vehicles. Even construction plant and machinery has to go this way.
After having lunch, there was an option to revisit MP if one wanted, but by now it was raining even harder, so we took a shuttle bus back down the mountain, to explore something of the town, and to await our train (1730) back to Olyantambo. There were a few problems on the way back. it should have taken one and half hours, but took two and half. The track is singler line with passing loops. The uphill train has to wait for the downhill one at each of these, and sometimes it was a long wait. The train crew were very goods. We had a costumed dancer at one point, and a fashion show of beautiful alpaca wool clothes at another. The models were two of the train crew, and the dancer another member.
At the teminus, we transferred back to buses for the return to Cusco, getting back at 10.00pm. Dinner was waiting for those of us who could face it. It had been a long tiring but most enjoyable day. Had the weather been kinder it would have been fantastic.
Following a good nights sleep, departure from the hotel to the airport was at 11.30am, finally getting back to the ship at about four o'clock.
We are so glad we did the trip. It was tiring but an experience not to be missed.
So much seems to have happened in the last few days, that there will have to be more than one blog.
After a very early start on Monday, at 5am!! we left for Lima airport and the flight to Cusco. Lima near the coast, where it is very dry, hardly any rainfall. The water has to be brouhgt in by pipeline and the river from the Andes.
Flying to Cusco, initially it is over barren, desert type country, including the foothills of the Andes. Next come the snow capped area, and finallyit is green and lush, even though we are talking about being over 11000ft above sea level. The flight is about an hour, and we arrived to warm sunshine. This was, we found, not to last. A short bus journey took us to our very comfortable hotel in the middle of the city. Having checked in, we were advise to rest until lunchtime, to start the acclimatisation to the high altitude. No-one knows who will get altitude sickness, until it happens.
Following a light lunch, we were due to start exploring this ancient Inca city, and the very first stop was right outside our hotel, on the other side of the road. This was the monastery of the Dominicans, established by the Spanish on their arrival in Cisco, and it is built on top of a number of Inaca temples, much of which from the foundations of parts of the monastery.
The Inacs had no written language, they did not discover the wheel, and yet thye could work very hard stone to an amazing degree of perfection. They did not use mortar, as all the surfaces were exact. The stones are not cut exactly square, but are designed to interlock. The largest pieces found in this site are in doorways, and have as many as 14 faces, with each one weighing about two tons!!
When we finished with the monastery, and went outside the weather had changed, and it had started to rain. All it did for the rest of the day was get heavier and colder. This meant a change in the programme, and visits cut short. After an attempt to see one of the out of town sites, the guide gave up and a visit to the cathedral took its place. at this point the first of our number was really suffering, and had to be given oxygen. The cathedral was very interesting, but the visit was spoilt by a number in the party, who were not properly dressed, getting silly and being rather obnoxious. Eventually, we returned to the hotel to drink more of the coca tea( one of the remedies for altitude sickness), and rest before dinner.
Early bed was called for, as on Tuesday we were in for another 5am start.
After a very early start on Monday, at 5am!! we left for Lima airport and the flight to Cusco. Lima near the coast, where it is very dry, hardly any rainfall. The water has to be brouhgt in by pipeline and the river from the Andes.
Flying to Cusco, initially it is over barren, desert type country, including the foothills of the Andes. Next come the snow capped area, and finallyit is green and lush, even though we are talking about being over 11000ft above sea level. The flight is about an hour, and we arrived to warm sunshine. This was, we found, not to last. A short bus journey took us to our very comfortable hotel in the middle of the city. Having checked in, we were advise to rest until lunchtime, to start the acclimatisation to the high altitude. No-one knows who will get altitude sickness, until it happens.
Following a light lunch, we were due to start exploring this ancient Inca city, and the very first stop was right outside our hotel, on the other side of the road. This was the monastery of the Dominicans, established by the Spanish on their arrival in Cisco, and it is built on top of a number of Inaca temples, much of which from the foundations of parts of the monastery.
The Inacs had no written language, they did not discover the wheel, and yet thye could work very hard stone to an amazing degree of perfection. They did not use mortar, as all the surfaces were exact. The stones are not cut exactly square, but are designed to interlock. The largest pieces found in this site are in doorways, and have as many as 14 faces, with each one weighing about two tons!!
When we finished with the monastery, and went outside the weather had changed, and it had started to rain. All it did for the rest of the day was get heavier and colder. This meant a change in the programme, and visits cut short. After an attempt to see one of the out of town sites, the guide gave up and a visit to the cathedral took its place. at this point the first of our number was really suffering, and had to be given oxygen. The cathedral was very interesting, but the visit was spoilt by a number in the party, who were not properly dressed, getting silly and being rather obnoxious. Eventually, we returned to the hotel to drink more of the coca tea( one of the remedies for altitude sickness), and rest before dinner.
Early bed was called for, as on Tuesday we were in for another 5am start.
Sunday, 20 February 2011
Arica was as expected, hot and dusty. Apart from the shopping, there are really only two things of note in the city; the cathedral and the old Customs House.
Both were designed by Gustave Eiffel of Eiffel Tower, Paris, fame. Both were first assembled in France and then broken down and shipped to Arica for reassembly. This was in the 1860s! MFI eat your heart out-flat pack is not new!!
The cathedral is very interesting, because of its construction. Very simple, but with real character. The Customs House looks like a proper building, until one gets inside and it is then easy to spot its antecedents.
Arica itself is a bit of an anomaly. It is the port for Bolivia, which is landlocked, even though it is in Chile. Literally at the end of the line, as there is a railway from Arica to La Paz, Bolivia's capital. The streets are bustling as it is a working city. Lots of small shops and market stalls. Around the port entrance are a few 'souvenir' stalls, but just a handful. We used one of the supermarketrs (supermercado in this part of the world) to buy a few things like bottled water, crisps, nuts etc. We were looking round and this young man stopped and spoke to us in Chilean. Ian asked if he spoke english and he replied in perfect english that he did, and the store was owned by Walmart(ASDA) He was most helpful.
We tried to find a couple of the retaurants mentioned in the guide book that Amanda and Esther gave us for Xmas. Unfortunately, they had both closed down! We sought advice from the tourist office, as it was lunchtime, and were advised that Friday was not a good day for lunching, only Saturday and Sunday were, but the evenings were OK. We returned to the ship for the luxury of its really excellent fish and chips served al fresco at the stern on deck 9.
In the evening, there was a BBQ on the aft deck, and we were fortunate to get tickets. We had a table for two, tucked away under the stairway beside the rail. It was great. Some amusement was had by the water in the swimming pool. As the ship was moving, it was slopping over the edges, and going to get food became a bit of a game, dodging the wave. The crew spoilt it by draining the pool.
After a day at sea, we arrived in General San Martin. It is a port but does not appear on any maps. It consists of two quays, one for containers and one for the outloading of minerals in bulk. The nearest habitation is some 20 minutes by coach from the port. We are moored in the bay, and have had to tender in. Our trip out was by coach, about one and half hours inland to Tomba Colorado. This is an Inca settlement, dating from the late 1400s, and well preserved. The place itself gave one food for thought, situated right on the edge of a river valley, with the desert immediately behind its rear wall. This is one of the strange things about this part of the world. The Attacama Desert is vast, but punctuated by the occasional river valley. The one we were following actually ran to the sea, but many rivers dry up before getting that far.
It gave us a chance to see something of the interior, in some ways a little like the Nile Valley in Egypt, green backing up to high sand-dunes and a lunar landscape.
The Incas ran a huge part of South America from their capital, Cusco, and did so very efficiently even though they did not have a written language, nor had they discovered the wheel. They developed a road system with Cusco as its hub, which spread out to Brazil, Argentina, southern Chile, Bolivia and Ecuador. Fortified settlements, such as Tomba Colorado, were key to their system of government, as they housed the local prefect. According to our guide, the nearest next prefects were about 55 kilometres away, north and south. At Tomba, as well as the settlement, part of their road system could be clearly seen. The modern road follows the line of it in parts.
This evening we sail for Callao, and our excursion to Macchu Pichu.
Both were designed by Gustave Eiffel of Eiffel Tower, Paris, fame. Both were first assembled in France and then broken down and shipped to Arica for reassembly. This was in the 1860s! MFI eat your heart out-flat pack is not new!!
The cathedral is very interesting, because of its construction. Very simple, but with real character. The Customs House looks like a proper building, until one gets inside and it is then easy to spot its antecedents.
Arica itself is a bit of an anomaly. It is the port for Bolivia, which is landlocked, even though it is in Chile. Literally at the end of the line, as there is a railway from Arica to La Paz, Bolivia's capital. The streets are bustling as it is a working city. Lots of small shops and market stalls. Around the port entrance are a few 'souvenir' stalls, but just a handful. We used one of the supermarketrs (supermercado in this part of the world) to buy a few things like bottled water, crisps, nuts etc. We were looking round and this young man stopped and spoke to us in Chilean. Ian asked if he spoke english and he replied in perfect english that he did, and the store was owned by Walmart(ASDA) He was most helpful.
We tried to find a couple of the retaurants mentioned in the guide book that Amanda and Esther gave us for Xmas. Unfortunately, they had both closed down! We sought advice from the tourist office, as it was lunchtime, and were advised that Friday was not a good day for lunching, only Saturday and Sunday were, but the evenings were OK. We returned to the ship for the luxury of its really excellent fish and chips served al fresco at the stern on deck 9.
In the evening, there was a BBQ on the aft deck, and we were fortunate to get tickets. We had a table for two, tucked away under the stairway beside the rail. It was great. Some amusement was had by the water in the swimming pool. As the ship was moving, it was slopping over the edges, and going to get food became a bit of a game, dodging the wave. The crew spoilt it by draining the pool.
After a day at sea, we arrived in General San Martin. It is a port but does not appear on any maps. It consists of two quays, one for containers and one for the outloading of minerals in bulk. The nearest habitation is some 20 minutes by coach from the port. We are moored in the bay, and have had to tender in. Our trip out was by coach, about one and half hours inland to Tomba Colorado. This is an Inca settlement, dating from the late 1400s, and well preserved. The place itself gave one food for thought, situated right on the edge of a river valley, with the desert immediately behind its rear wall. This is one of the strange things about this part of the world. The Attacama Desert is vast, but punctuated by the occasional river valley. The one we were following actually ran to the sea, but many rivers dry up before getting that far.
It gave us a chance to see something of the interior, in some ways a little like the Nile Valley in Egypt, green backing up to high sand-dunes and a lunar landscape.
The Incas ran a huge part of South America from their capital, Cusco, and did so very efficiently even though they did not have a written language, nor had they discovered the wheel. They developed a road system with Cusco as its hub, which spread out to Brazil, Argentina, southern Chile, Bolivia and Ecuador. Fortified settlements, such as Tomba Colorado, were key to their system of government, as they housed the local prefect. According to our guide, the nearest next prefects were about 55 kilometres away, north and south. At Tomba, as well as the settlement, part of their road system could be clearly seen. The modern road follows the line of it in parts.
This evening we sail for Callao, and our excursion to Macchu Pichu.
Thursday, 17 February 2011
Funny place, Valpairiso. The ship was moored right beside the harbour and the dock gate, yet the port authorities insisted on bussing us to the other end of the port area(about 2 miles!) for the cruise terminal. We then had to make our own way back to the same area.
We decided to walk, as that way passed through all the squares. You can imagine Ian's comments on the subject, but nevertheless, it was done-slowly!! Fortunately the weather was kind.
Some of the city is on the flat, the bit we walked, but the rest is built on a number of hills. To access these on foot is done by 'ascenseurs' or funicular railways. Very old and very quaint. The newest was built around 1913. At the top of the one we took were great views over the port and beyond. They do not run to the very tops of the hills, only to where the city reached at the time they were built.
After a stroll, we descended and enjoyed the harbour area. when it was time to go back to the ship, we took a trolleybus. When we first left the terminal, we had passed the terminus, so we applied dead reckoning and got back safely. Don't know how old they are, but the design shape implied that the buses were probably around 50 to 60 years old!!
On the way bck through the terminal there was a wine tasting going on-for free!! Never people to pass such a thing up, we took part. Most enjoyable, and we discovered a very nice Chilean wine made from a grape named Carmenere. More about this wine later.
Wednesday was a good day. Having had a good golf put, Ian won the shuffleboard and his team the morning quiz. This was followed by a Rounders lunch. If one is going the whole way round, ie Southampton to Southampton, one is known as a Rounder,and each sector there is a special lunch just for the Rounders. A good time was had by all-though it does take up a bit of the day !!
Thursday was different. Not so successful at golf, but spent the rest of the morning wine tasting. They had three different Carmeneres among the 15 wines on offer. Two were very good, and have gone onto our dinner drinking stock. After a quick lunch we went to dancing class at 1.15pm. Our teacher, Lorraine, really put us through it, learning three active dances for tomorrows 'tropical' night (more practice to come!). We were all 'perspiring hard' at the end!
On each sector, a number of passengers get together to write and put on some sort of play; last sector was a pantomime and quite funny. This time it was an attempt at a comedy, and fell rather flat. We went to support someone in it. After that was a tea dance, and then Ian went off to the quiz. This afternoon, his team scored 20 out of 20, which meant that the quizmaster had to do 20 press-ups. (if it is a lady, then it is either those or 20 high kicks) Doesn't happen often.
Tomorrow, Friday, is Arica. We have nothing planned, except to do our ususal and explore the place as best we can. It is getting warmer, 25C today, and that might curtail us a little bit, but we shall see. This part of Chile is close to the Attacama desert, so sees virtually no rain at all, but can, so we are told, be dusty.
Probably one more post before Lima, and our jaunt to Macchu Pichu.
We decided to walk, as that way passed through all the squares. You can imagine Ian's comments on the subject, but nevertheless, it was done-slowly!! Fortunately the weather was kind.
Some of the city is on the flat, the bit we walked, but the rest is built on a number of hills. To access these on foot is done by 'ascenseurs' or funicular railways. Very old and very quaint. The newest was built around 1913. At the top of the one we took were great views over the port and beyond. They do not run to the very tops of the hills, only to where the city reached at the time they were built.
After a stroll, we descended and enjoyed the harbour area. when it was time to go back to the ship, we took a trolleybus. When we first left the terminal, we had passed the terminus, so we applied dead reckoning and got back safely. Don't know how old they are, but the design shape implied that the buses were probably around 50 to 60 years old!!
On the way bck through the terminal there was a wine tasting going on-for free!! Never people to pass such a thing up, we took part. Most enjoyable, and we discovered a very nice Chilean wine made from a grape named Carmenere. More about this wine later.
Wednesday was a good day. Having had a good golf put, Ian won the shuffleboard and his team the morning quiz. This was followed by a Rounders lunch. If one is going the whole way round, ie Southampton to Southampton, one is known as a Rounder,and each sector there is a special lunch just for the Rounders. A good time was had by all-though it does take up a bit of the day !!
Thursday was different. Not so successful at golf, but spent the rest of the morning wine tasting. They had three different Carmeneres among the 15 wines on offer. Two were very good, and have gone onto our dinner drinking stock. After a quick lunch we went to dancing class at 1.15pm. Our teacher, Lorraine, really put us through it, learning three active dances for tomorrows 'tropical' night (more practice to come!). We were all 'perspiring hard' at the end!
On each sector, a number of passengers get together to write and put on some sort of play; last sector was a pantomime and quite funny. This time it was an attempt at a comedy, and fell rather flat. We went to support someone in it. After that was a tea dance, and then Ian went off to the quiz. This afternoon, his team scored 20 out of 20, which meant that the quizmaster had to do 20 press-ups. (if it is a lady, then it is either those or 20 high kicks) Doesn't happen often.
Tomorrow, Friday, is Arica. We have nothing planned, except to do our ususal and explore the place as best we can. It is getting warmer, 25C today, and that might curtail us a little bit, but we shall see. This part of Chile is close to the Attacama desert, so sees virtually no rain at all, but can, so we are told, be dusty.
Probably one more post before Lima, and our jaunt to Macchu Pichu.
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