Having left Callao/Lima at about 7pm, the ship sailed over night to Salaverry. This is the port for Trujillo in the northern part of Peru, and we arrived at 11am on Thursday. It is a working port, and our arrival meant that one of the ships had to stop discharging her cargo until we left, for safety reasons. She was moored on the other side of our quay, which was not very wide!!
We had initially decided not to do a trip here, but our own thing. However, having done some research, we change our minds and were able to join an excursion to some ruins connected to the peoples in the area pre the Incas. The Chimu had built an enormous city between 900AD and 1500AD called Chan Chan. The Incas conquered them around that time, and then the Spanish arrived. It was built of mud brick and has only recently been discovered. It has been estimated as covering some 20 square kilometres. Our visit started at one of the nine palaces found so far, one of the smallest! We could only see three of the five parts, and that took nearly an hour. It is estimated that the largest palace is about two and half times bigger than the one we were at. After this, we moved on to the seaside, to where the fishermen still use reed boats, and fish in the same manner as they would have done all those years ago. We were given a demonstration of how they did it, and dealt with the surf.
The final part of the tour was to a temple mound. To give an idea of just how big this city was, we had started at the palace some five kilomtres outside Trujillo, and the temple was inside the city, surrounded by modern buildings. Everone was surprised it had survived, though the guide explained it was luck rather than good judgement. Most of the foreign tourits who come to this part of Peru do so for the surfing, though the occasional cruise liners are calling. It is a holiday area for Lima, which is why there are places such as we saw available. (There was another tout, to two much larger temples on the other side of Trujillo and included the old part of the city. One of the difficulties the arrangers had faced was getting enough English speaking guides. Ours was a school teacher, and on the other coach a young man on his first guiding trip who was in the city administration. They both did very well. They were from Trujillo, but other guides, along with some of the coaches had been brought in specially from Lima. We were pleased we had done it, and having talked to those who did their own thing, found we had made the right decision
We sailed out of Salaverry at 6pm, next stop Manta in Ecuador
Friday, 25 February 2011
Tuesday was another day. It started for us at 5am, and it was raining. Neither of us had slept that well, and Ian was suffering from the altitude. So much so that he did not want any breakfast, and those that know him will realise things were bad. However, after a five minute spell on oxygen, he felt much better. He was not the worst off though, as two of the party had had to be taken to hospital during the night, though they were able to jion us in time to leave.
The hotel was left at 6.00 in minibuses, as the strat of the journey to Machu Piccu (MP) was by road. This part of the trip took a couple of hours, until we arrived in the town of Olyantambo. This is where we began the train journey to Aguas Calientes, the nearest town to MP. Aguas Calientes can only be accessed by rail. It has no road access at all.Much of the railway is alongside a river, and it was in full spate. Apparently, on the day before, the trains could not run, because the river level was some five feet higher. To say it was a raging torrent was an understatement.
Two hours later, and we reached the terminus and transfered to midibuses was the last part, up to MP. Initially following the river vally, the road crossed the river and started the zigzag climb up the mountainside. The climb took about half an hour.
MP is on a finger of land, at a height of 9,000ft. The river, some 1,000ft below, runs around three of the sides. A climb on foot of about ten minutes takes one to the highest point of the city, to a natural view point. Nether Ian or Sue were having any difficulty with any of this, as MP is some 2,000ft lower than Cusco.
The tour of the best bits of the city lasted about two hours, and done in pouring rain. Despite this, it was fascinating. MP is unique in that it was never discovered by the Spanish, and effectively disappeared from view in the late 1500s. It was accidently rediscovered in 1902 by an Andean farmer looking for more land, but nothing more happened until 1911 when an American explorer, Hiram Bingham was shown it by a local headman. He was actually looking for the Lost City of the Incas, which in fact is much further east, practically in Brazil (and had been found by the Spanish around 1580). He returned with a much larger expedition in 1912, and started to map and clear the site.
The railway was built by the Peruvian government in the 1930s, to allow the transport of goods and foodstuffs from the fertile interior to Cusco and then to the arid coastal areas. It actually runs from Cusco, but appalling weather in late December 2010 has closed in parts. It is not due to reopen until late March/early April 2011. It is narrow guage, and during the tourist season runs passenger trains during the day. At night it becomes a freight line, carrying everything for the area of Aguas Caliente and MP, from food to souvenirs, fuel and vehicles. Even construction plant and machinery has to go this way.
After having lunch, there was an option to revisit MP if one wanted, but by now it was raining even harder, so we took a shuttle bus back down the mountain, to explore something of the town, and to await our train (1730) back to Olyantambo. There were a few problems on the way back. it should have taken one and half hours, but took two and half. The track is singler line with passing loops. The uphill train has to wait for the downhill one at each of these, and sometimes it was a long wait. The train crew were very goods. We had a costumed dancer at one point, and a fashion show of beautiful alpaca wool clothes at another. The models were two of the train crew, and the dancer another member.
At the teminus, we transferred back to buses for the return to Cusco, getting back at 10.00pm. Dinner was waiting for those of us who could face it. It had been a long tiring but most enjoyable day. Had the weather been kinder it would have been fantastic.
Following a good nights sleep, departure from the hotel to the airport was at 11.30am, finally getting back to the ship at about four o'clock.
We are so glad we did the trip. It was tiring but an experience not to be missed.
The hotel was left at 6.00 in minibuses, as the strat of the journey to Machu Piccu (MP) was by road. This part of the trip took a couple of hours, until we arrived in the town of Olyantambo. This is where we began the train journey to Aguas Calientes, the nearest town to MP. Aguas Calientes can only be accessed by rail. It has no road access at all.Much of the railway is alongside a river, and it was in full spate. Apparently, on the day before, the trains could not run, because the river level was some five feet higher. To say it was a raging torrent was an understatement.
Two hours later, and we reached the terminus and transfered to midibuses was the last part, up to MP. Initially following the river vally, the road crossed the river and started the zigzag climb up the mountainside. The climb took about half an hour.
MP is on a finger of land, at a height of 9,000ft. The river, some 1,000ft below, runs around three of the sides. A climb on foot of about ten minutes takes one to the highest point of the city, to a natural view point. Nether Ian or Sue were having any difficulty with any of this, as MP is some 2,000ft lower than Cusco.
The tour of the best bits of the city lasted about two hours, and done in pouring rain. Despite this, it was fascinating. MP is unique in that it was never discovered by the Spanish, and effectively disappeared from view in the late 1500s. It was accidently rediscovered in 1902 by an Andean farmer looking for more land, but nothing more happened until 1911 when an American explorer, Hiram Bingham was shown it by a local headman. He was actually looking for the Lost City of the Incas, which in fact is much further east, practically in Brazil (and had been found by the Spanish around 1580). He returned with a much larger expedition in 1912, and started to map and clear the site.
The railway was built by the Peruvian government in the 1930s, to allow the transport of goods and foodstuffs from the fertile interior to Cusco and then to the arid coastal areas. It actually runs from Cusco, but appalling weather in late December 2010 has closed in parts. It is not due to reopen until late March/early April 2011. It is narrow guage, and during the tourist season runs passenger trains during the day. At night it becomes a freight line, carrying everything for the area of Aguas Caliente and MP, from food to souvenirs, fuel and vehicles. Even construction plant and machinery has to go this way.
After having lunch, there was an option to revisit MP if one wanted, but by now it was raining even harder, so we took a shuttle bus back down the mountain, to explore something of the town, and to await our train (1730) back to Olyantambo. There were a few problems on the way back. it should have taken one and half hours, but took two and half. The track is singler line with passing loops. The uphill train has to wait for the downhill one at each of these, and sometimes it was a long wait. The train crew were very goods. We had a costumed dancer at one point, and a fashion show of beautiful alpaca wool clothes at another. The models were two of the train crew, and the dancer another member.
At the teminus, we transferred back to buses for the return to Cusco, getting back at 10.00pm. Dinner was waiting for those of us who could face it. It had been a long tiring but most enjoyable day. Had the weather been kinder it would have been fantastic.
Following a good nights sleep, departure from the hotel to the airport was at 11.30am, finally getting back to the ship at about four o'clock.
We are so glad we did the trip. It was tiring but an experience not to be missed.
So much seems to have happened in the last few days, that there will have to be more than one blog.
After a very early start on Monday, at 5am!! we left for Lima airport and the flight to Cusco. Lima near the coast, where it is very dry, hardly any rainfall. The water has to be brouhgt in by pipeline and the river from the Andes.
Flying to Cusco, initially it is over barren, desert type country, including the foothills of the Andes. Next come the snow capped area, and finallyit is green and lush, even though we are talking about being over 11000ft above sea level. The flight is about an hour, and we arrived to warm sunshine. This was, we found, not to last. A short bus journey took us to our very comfortable hotel in the middle of the city. Having checked in, we were advise to rest until lunchtime, to start the acclimatisation to the high altitude. No-one knows who will get altitude sickness, until it happens.
Following a light lunch, we were due to start exploring this ancient Inca city, and the very first stop was right outside our hotel, on the other side of the road. This was the monastery of the Dominicans, established by the Spanish on their arrival in Cisco, and it is built on top of a number of Inaca temples, much of which from the foundations of parts of the monastery.
The Inacs had no written language, they did not discover the wheel, and yet thye could work very hard stone to an amazing degree of perfection. They did not use mortar, as all the surfaces were exact. The stones are not cut exactly square, but are designed to interlock. The largest pieces found in this site are in doorways, and have as many as 14 faces, with each one weighing about two tons!!
When we finished with the monastery, and went outside the weather had changed, and it had started to rain. All it did for the rest of the day was get heavier and colder. This meant a change in the programme, and visits cut short. After an attempt to see one of the out of town sites, the guide gave up and a visit to the cathedral took its place. at this point the first of our number was really suffering, and had to be given oxygen. The cathedral was very interesting, but the visit was spoilt by a number in the party, who were not properly dressed, getting silly and being rather obnoxious. Eventually, we returned to the hotel to drink more of the coca tea( one of the remedies for altitude sickness), and rest before dinner.
Early bed was called for, as on Tuesday we were in for another 5am start.
After a very early start on Monday, at 5am!! we left for Lima airport and the flight to Cusco. Lima near the coast, where it is very dry, hardly any rainfall. The water has to be brouhgt in by pipeline and the river from the Andes.
Flying to Cusco, initially it is over barren, desert type country, including the foothills of the Andes. Next come the snow capped area, and finallyit is green and lush, even though we are talking about being over 11000ft above sea level. The flight is about an hour, and we arrived to warm sunshine. This was, we found, not to last. A short bus journey took us to our very comfortable hotel in the middle of the city. Having checked in, we were advise to rest until lunchtime, to start the acclimatisation to the high altitude. No-one knows who will get altitude sickness, until it happens.
Following a light lunch, we were due to start exploring this ancient Inca city, and the very first stop was right outside our hotel, on the other side of the road. This was the monastery of the Dominicans, established by the Spanish on their arrival in Cisco, and it is built on top of a number of Inaca temples, much of which from the foundations of parts of the monastery.
The Inacs had no written language, they did not discover the wheel, and yet thye could work very hard stone to an amazing degree of perfection. They did not use mortar, as all the surfaces were exact. The stones are not cut exactly square, but are designed to interlock. The largest pieces found in this site are in doorways, and have as many as 14 faces, with each one weighing about two tons!!
When we finished with the monastery, and went outside the weather had changed, and it had started to rain. All it did for the rest of the day was get heavier and colder. This meant a change in the programme, and visits cut short. After an attempt to see one of the out of town sites, the guide gave up and a visit to the cathedral took its place. at this point the first of our number was really suffering, and had to be given oxygen. The cathedral was very interesting, but the visit was spoilt by a number in the party, who were not properly dressed, getting silly and being rather obnoxious. Eventually, we returned to the hotel to drink more of the coca tea( one of the remedies for altitude sickness), and rest before dinner.
Early bed was called for, as on Tuesday we were in for another 5am start.
Sunday, 20 February 2011
Arica was as expected, hot and dusty. Apart from the shopping, there are really only two things of note in the city; the cathedral and the old Customs House.
Both were designed by Gustave Eiffel of Eiffel Tower, Paris, fame. Both were first assembled in France and then broken down and shipped to Arica for reassembly. This was in the 1860s! MFI eat your heart out-flat pack is not new!!
The cathedral is very interesting, because of its construction. Very simple, but with real character. The Customs House looks like a proper building, until one gets inside and it is then easy to spot its antecedents.
Arica itself is a bit of an anomaly. It is the port for Bolivia, which is landlocked, even though it is in Chile. Literally at the end of the line, as there is a railway from Arica to La Paz, Bolivia's capital. The streets are bustling as it is a working city. Lots of small shops and market stalls. Around the port entrance are a few 'souvenir' stalls, but just a handful. We used one of the supermarketrs (supermercado in this part of the world) to buy a few things like bottled water, crisps, nuts etc. We were looking round and this young man stopped and spoke to us in Chilean. Ian asked if he spoke english and he replied in perfect english that he did, and the store was owned by Walmart(ASDA) He was most helpful.
We tried to find a couple of the retaurants mentioned in the guide book that Amanda and Esther gave us for Xmas. Unfortunately, they had both closed down! We sought advice from the tourist office, as it was lunchtime, and were advised that Friday was not a good day for lunching, only Saturday and Sunday were, but the evenings were OK. We returned to the ship for the luxury of its really excellent fish and chips served al fresco at the stern on deck 9.
In the evening, there was a BBQ on the aft deck, and we were fortunate to get tickets. We had a table for two, tucked away under the stairway beside the rail. It was great. Some amusement was had by the water in the swimming pool. As the ship was moving, it was slopping over the edges, and going to get food became a bit of a game, dodging the wave. The crew spoilt it by draining the pool.
After a day at sea, we arrived in General San Martin. It is a port but does not appear on any maps. It consists of two quays, one for containers and one for the outloading of minerals in bulk. The nearest habitation is some 20 minutes by coach from the port. We are moored in the bay, and have had to tender in. Our trip out was by coach, about one and half hours inland to Tomba Colorado. This is an Inca settlement, dating from the late 1400s, and well preserved. The place itself gave one food for thought, situated right on the edge of a river valley, with the desert immediately behind its rear wall. This is one of the strange things about this part of the world. The Attacama Desert is vast, but punctuated by the occasional river valley. The one we were following actually ran to the sea, but many rivers dry up before getting that far.
It gave us a chance to see something of the interior, in some ways a little like the Nile Valley in Egypt, green backing up to high sand-dunes and a lunar landscape.
The Incas ran a huge part of South America from their capital, Cusco, and did so very efficiently even though they did not have a written language, nor had they discovered the wheel. They developed a road system with Cusco as its hub, which spread out to Brazil, Argentina, southern Chile, Bolivia and Ecuador. Fortified settlements, such as Tomba Colorado, were key to their system of government, as they housed the local prefect. According to our guide, the nearest next prefects were about 55 kilometres away, north and south. At Tomba, as well as the settlement, part of their road system could be clearly seen. The modern road follows the line of it in parts.
This evening we sail for Callao, and our excursion to Macchu Pichu.
Both were designed by Gustave Eiffel of Eiffel Tower, Paris, fame. Both were first assembled in France and then broken down and shipped to Arica for reassembly. This was in the 1860s! MFI eat your heart out-flat pack is not new!!
The cathedral is very interesting, because of its construction. Very simple, but with real character. The Customs House looks like a proper building, until one gets inside and it is then easy to spot its antecedents.
Arica itself is a bit of an anomaly. It is the port for Bolivia, which is landlocked, even though it is in Chile. Literally at the end of the line, as there is a railway from Arica to La Paz, Bolivia's capital. The streets are bustling as it is a working city. Lots of small shops and market stalls. Around the port entrance are a few 'souvenir' stalls, but just a handful. We used one of the supermarketrs (supermercado in this part of the world) to buy a few things like bottled water, crisps, nuts etc. We were looking round and this young man stopped and spoke to us in Chilean. Ian asked if he spoke english and he replied in perfect english that he did, and the store was owned by Walmart(ASDA) He was most helpful.
We tried to find a couple of the retaurants mentioned in the guide book that Amanda and Esther gave us for Xmas. Unfortunately, they had both closed down! We sought advice from the tourist office, as it was lunchtime, and were advised that Friday was not a good day for lunching, only Saturday and Sunday were, but the evenings were OK. We returned to the ship for the luxury of its really excellent fish and chips served al fresco at the stern on deck 9.
In the evening, there was a BBQ on the aft deck, and we were fortunate to get tickets. We had a table for two, tucked away under the stairway beside the rail. It was great. Some amusement was had by the water in the swimming pool. As the ship was moving, it was slopping over the edges, and going to get food became a bit of a game, dodging the wave. The crew spoilt it by draining the pool.
After a day at sea, we arrived in General San Martin. It is a port but does not appear on any maps. It consists of two quays, one for containers and one for the outloading of minerals in bulk. The nearest habitation is some 20 minutes by coach from the port. We are moored in the bay, and have had to tender in. Our trip out was by coach, about one and half hours inland to Tomba Colorado. This is an Inca settlement, dating from the late 1400s, and well preserved. The place itself gave one food for thought, situated right on the edge of a river valley, with the desert immediately behind its rear wall. This is one of the strange things about this part of the world. The Attacama Desert is vast, but punctuated by the occasional river valley. The one we were following actually ran to the sea, but many rivers dry up before getting that far.
It gave us a chance to see something of the interior, in some ways a little like the Nile Valley in Egypt, green backing up to high sand-dunes and a lunar landscape.
The Incas ran a huge part of South America from their capital, Cusco, and did so very efficiently even though they did not have a written language, nor had they discovered the wheel. They developed a road system with Cusco as its hub, which spread out to Brazil, Argentina, southern Chile, Bolivia and Ecuador. Fortified settlements, such as Tomba Colorado, were key to their system of government, as they housed the local prefect. According to our guide, the nearest next prefects were about 55 kilometres away, north and south. At Tomba, as well as the settlement, part of their road system could be clearly seen. The modern road follows the line of it in parts.
This evening we sail for Callao, and our excursion to Macchu Pichu.
Thursday, 17 February 2011
Funny place, Valpairiso. The ship was moored right beside the harbour and the dock gate, yet the port authorities insisted on bussing us to the other end of the port area(about 2 miles!) for the cruise terminal. We then had to make our own way back to the same area.
We decided to walk, as that way passed through all the squares. You can imagine Ian's comments on the subject, but nevertheless, it was done-slowly!! Fortunately the weather was kind.
Some of the city is on the flat, the bit we walked, but the rest is built on a number of hills. To access these on foot is done by 'ascenseurs' or funicular railways. Very old and very quaint. The newest was built around 1913. At the top of the one we took were great views over the port and beyond. They do not run to the very tops of the hills, only to where the city reached at the time they were built.
After a stroll, we descended and enjoyed the harbour area. when it was time to go back to the ship, we took a trolleybus. When we first left the terminal, we had passed the terminus, so we applied dead reckoning and got back safely. Don't know how old they are, but the design shape implied that the buses were probably around 50 to 60 years old!!
On the way bck through the terminal there was a wine tasting going on-for free!! Never people to pass such a thing up, we took part. Most enjoyable, and we discovered a very nice Chilean wine made from a grape named Carmenere. More about this wine later.
Wednesday was a good day. Having had a good golf put, Ian won the shuffleboard and his team the morning quiz. This was followed by a Rounders lunch. If one is going the whole way round, ie Southampton to Southampton, one is known as a Rounder,and each sector there is a special lunch just for the Rounders. A good time was had by all-though it does take up a bit of the day !!
Thursday was different. Not so successful at golf, but spent the rest of the morning wine tasting. They had three different Carmeneres among the 15 wines on offer. Two were very good, and have gone onto our dinner drinking stock. After a quick lunch we went to dancing class at 1.15pm. Our teacher, Lorraine, really put us through it, learning three active dances for tomorrows 'tropical' night (more practice to come!). We were all 'perspiring hard' at the end!
On each sector, a number of passengers get together to write and put on some sort of play; last sector was a pantomime and quite funny. This time it was an attempt at a comedy, and fell rather flat. We went to support someone in it. After that was a tea dance, and then Ian went off to the quiz. This afternoon, his team scored 20 out of 20, which meant that the quizmaster had to do 20 press-ups. (if it is a lady, then it is either those or 20 high kicks) Doesn't happen often.
Tomorrow, Friday, is Arica. We have nothing planned, except to do our ususal and explore the place as best we can. It is getting warmer, 25C today, and that might curtail us a little bit, but we shall see. This part of Chile is close to the Attacama desert, so sees virtually no rain at all, but can, so we are told, be dusty.
Probably one more post before Lima, and our jaunt to Macchu Pichu.
We decided to walk, as that way passed through all the squares. You can imagine Ian's comments on the subject, but nevertheless, it was done-slowly!! Fortunately the weather was kind.
Some of the city is on the flat, the bit we walked, but the rest is built on a number of hills. To access these on foot is done by 'ascenseurs' or funicular railways. Very old and very quaint. The newest was built around 1913. At the top of the one we took were great views over the port and beyond. They do not run to the very tops of the hills, only to where the city reached at the time they were built.
After a stroll, we descended and enjoyed the harbour area. when it was time to go back to the ship, we took a trolleybus. When we first left the terminal, we had passed the terminus, so we applied dead reckoning and got back safely. Don't know how old they are, but the design shape implied that the buses were probably around 50 to 60 years old!!
On the way bck through the terminal there was a wine tasting going on-for free!! Never people to pass such a thing up, we took part. Most enjoyable, and we discovered a very nice Chilean wine made from a grape named Carmenere. More about this wine later.
Wednesday was a good day. Having had a good golf put, Ian won the shuffleboard and his team the morning quiz. This was followed by a Rounders lunch. If one is going the whole way round, ie Southampton to Southampton, one is known as a Rounder,and each sector there is a special lunch just for the Rounders. A good time was had by all-though it does take up a bit of the day !!
Thursday was different. Not so successful at golf, but spent the rest of the morning wine tasting. They had three different Carmeneres among the 15 wines on offer. Two were very good, and have gone onto our dinner drinking stock. After a quick lunch we went to dancing class at 1.15pm. Our teacher, Lorraine, really put us through it, learning three active dances for tomorrows 'tropical' night (more practice to come!). We were all 'perspiring hard' at the end!
On each sector, a number of passengers get together to write and put on some sort of play; last sector was a pantomime and quite funny. This time it was an attempt at a comedy, and fell rather flat. We went to support someone in it. After that was a tea dance, and then Ian went off to the quiz. This afternoon, his team scored 20 out of 20, which meant that the quizmaster had to do 20 press-ups. (if it is a lady, then it is either those or 20 high kicks) Doesn't happen often.
Tomorrow, Friday, is Arica. We have nothing planned, except to do our ususal and explore the place as best we can. It is getting warmer, 25C today, and that might curtail us a little bit, but we shall see. This part of Chile is close to the Attacama desert, so sees virtually no rain at all, but can, so we are told, be dusty.
Probably one more post before Lima, and our jaunt to Macchu Pichu.
Monday, 14 February 2011
Just to put minds at rest, the epicentre of the earthquake in Chile on Monday 14th was 70 miles from us, and there was no tsunami.
Updates are usually done every couple of days, unless events conspire to prhibit. On 21st February we leave at 7am lovcal for Macchu Picchu, and will not get back until late on 23rd, so the update for that event will most likely be on 24th.
After the drearyness of Castro, what a change.
Puerto Montt dawned bright and clear, at around 15C. Both Sue and Ian were doing things, but they were very different.
Sue's trip was by coach into the hinterland, to do some exploring. Thyus were out for the whole day, leaving at 8am and getting back around 4.45pm. It would seem that a great time was had by all. After a coach trip of about one and a half hours, they joined a lake cruise and had a great time admiring the spectacular scenery and the local fauna. Next came lunch with time to walk and explore where they were, before moving by coach to another location and the llamas. Finally, back on the coach for the return journey.
At this juncture, one should comment on the Chilean way of doing road repairs, as these affected both Sue and Ian's trips. Not being content to dig up and resurface, they dig up kilometres at a time, and make it one way traffic over what is left. This does lead to seriously long delays!!
Ian managed to do one of the things that he has always wanted to try, namely white water rafting.
Twelve intrepid souls decided to have ago at this, nine passengers(five men and four ladies) two members of the show dance troupe, and a crew member.
Following a drive of just over an hour in a minibus(would have been shorter but for the aforementioned roadworks), the destination was reached. Having disentangled ourselves from each other, we dismounted to be met by our guides and given wetsuits(yes, there was one big enough for me!!), jackets and boots. We changed and then were driven down to the rafts. Following an extensive safety briefing, lifejackets and helmets were fitted, photographs taken and it was down to the water.
Six to a boat, plus a guide, and we were off. One does not sit in the boat, but on the sides, with ones feet wedged under the cross piece in front. Steering is done pricipally by the guide, assisted by the passengers paddling hard in the rquired direction when told to do so.
Now to the rapids, and this is where it becomes exhilarating, and impossible to describe. It is an enormous adrenalin rush, and terrific fun, if a little scary at times. We were on the water for virtually one and half hours, most of negotiating rapids or the slacker water inbetween. Only the last ten minutes or so was in calmer water. About 15 minutes from the ned, with one slight waterfall ahead, the guide invited us to go into the water and sail down the last bit in the recovery position we had been shown. This is lying back in the water, with ones feet ahead of one, knees slightly bent. Exhilarating!!! To get back into the boat was a bit undignifying though. Hang on the side with ones feet trailing in the water. Be grasped by the life jacket by the guide. A big heave by him, and one is lying face down in the bottom of the boat.
At the end of the journey, dry clothes were waiting, as was a snack lunch. All too soon, it was back into the bus for the run back to the port and the waiting Black Watch.
Valentines Day is glorious, though the sea is a bit bumpy. We are on our way to Valpairiso. No cards to open, by agreement, though a bottle of pink champagne is in the fridge for this evening (remembered and brought specially from home for the purpose!!!)
Updates are usually done every couple of days, unless events conspire to prhibit. On 21st February we leave at 7am lovcal for Macchu Picchu, and will not get back until late on 23rd, so the update for that event will most likely be on 24th.
After the drearyness of Castro, what a change.
Puerto Montt dawned bright and clear, at around 15C. Both Sue and Ian were doing things, but they were very different.
Sue's trip was by coach into the hinterland, to do some exploring. Thyus were out for the whole day, leaving at 8am and getting back around 4.45pm. It would seem that a great time was had by all. After a coach trip of about one and a half hours, they joined a lake cruise and had a great time admiring the spectacular scenery and the local fauna. Next came lunch with time to walk and explore where they were, before moving by coach to another location and the llamas. Finally, back on the coach for the return journey.
At this juncture, one should comment on the Chilean way of doing road repairs, as these affected both Sue and Ian's trips. Not being content to dig up and resurface, they dig up kilometres at a time, and make it one way traffic over what is left. This does lead to seriously long delays!!
Ian managed to do one of the things that he has always wanted to try, namely white water rafting.
Twelve intrepid souls decided to have ago at this, nine passengers(five men and four ladies) two members of the show dance troupe, and a crew member.
Following a drive of just over an hour in a minibus(would have been shorter but for the aforementioned roadworks), the destination was reached. Having disentangled ourselves from each other, we dismounted to be met by our guides and given wetsuits(yes, there was one big enough for me!!), jackets and boots. We changed and then were driven down to the rafts. Following an extensive safety briefing, lifejackets and helmets were fitted, photographs taken and it was down to the water.
Six to a boat, plus a guide, and we were off. One does not sit in the boat, but on the sides, with ones feet wedged under the cross piece in front. Steering is done pricipally by the guide, assisted by the passengers paddling hard in the rquired direction when told to do so.
Now to the rapids, and this is where it becomes exhilarating, and impossible to describe. It is an enormous adrenalin rush, and terrific fun, if a little scary at times. We were on the water for virtually one and half hours, most of negotiating rapids or the slacker water inbetween. Only the last ten minutes or so was in calmer water. About 15 minutes from the ned, with one slight waterfall ahead, the guide invited us to go into the water and sail down the last bit in the recovery position we had been shown. This is lying back in the water, with ones feet ahead of one, knees slightly bent. Exhilarating!!! To get back into the boat was a bit undignifying though. Hang on the side with ones feet trailing in the water. Be grasped by the life jacket by the guide. A big heave by him, and one is lying face down in the bottom of the boat.
At the end of the journey, dry clothes were waiting, as was a snack lunch. All too soon, it was back into the bus for the run back to the port and the waiting Black Watch.
Valentines Day is glorious, though the sea is a bit bumpy. We are on our way to Valpairiso. No cards to open, by agreement, though a bottle of pink champagne is in the fridge for this evening (remembered and brought specially from home for the purpose!!!)
Friday, 11 February 2011
The last two days have been magical. The ship has been running up through the fjords in glorious sunshine, so shorts and short sleeves have been the order of the day. This is not withstanding the glaciers that have been seen, running down to the shoreline. Yesterday, we passed a stranded ship!
Apparently, it was a Greek cargo-liner. About 40 years ago, she was transitting the fjords, and on this particular day, the captain left the bridge with the pilot, to have lunch. The officer of the watch did not know that in this particular fjord there was a bank to one side of the centreline, about one hundred metres wide and a kilometre long. The ship ran aground!!. Everyone got off safely, but it was not possible(probablynot worth!!) salvaging her, and so she has been there ever since. A few holes are noticeable on her hull and superstructure. It seems that the Chilean navy use her for target practice, if they are passing by.
At one point, it was necessary to leave the fjords for a while. Whilst outside, on the Pacific ocean, a small pod of whales went by, about six of them. All in all, a magical day
Today is no different. We are at anchor outside a place called Puerto Chacabuco. It is a nowhere place, consisiting of jetties and wharves. The jetties are used by container ships, outloading the principal output of the area, fruit and vegetables. The main town is about 15kms, called Puerto Aysen. It was a port, on the river, until the river silted up.
We took the local public service bus, which was a bit of an experience in itself. The town is mostly single story buildings, and has that 'frontier town' look. Built on the grid system, the main street is one way, and everything goes down it. Every where we went, we felt alittle like being in Gullivers travels, as the locals are not the tallest people in the world.
There is not a lot in the town, except a most unususal church. It is very modern and angular, and finished in 1990, if we read the sign correctly. Up to the first story is concrete. Everything there after is a latticework of timber, covered in what appears to be plywood. The roof is tiled. It is very difficult to describe, though fascinating to visit. Hopefully, after our return, and we can post photographs, it will appear.
It did seem strange to be walking around in shorts and short sleeeves, when all the hills around were covered in snow. Apparently, we have a hit a temperature bounce, and tomorrow is forecast as 12C, and rain, as against todays 24C!!
Black Watch is at anchor in a corner of the fjord, and we have been using the tenders to get to and fro. From the shore, there is a super picture of her against the backdrop of snow capped hills. We are due to sail at 5pm our time(8pm UK time), so will get more splendid vistas for some hours yet.
Apparently, it was a Greek cargo-liner. About 40 years ago, she was transitting the fjords, and on this particular day, the captain left the bridge with the pilot, to have lunch. The officer of the watch did not know that in this particular fjord there was a bank to one side of the centreline, about one hundred metres wide and a kilometre long. The ship ran aground!!. Everyone got off safely, but it was not possible(probablynot worth!!) salvaging her, and so she has been there ever since. A few holes are noticeable on her hull and superstructure. It seems that the Chilean navy use her for target practice, if they are passing by.
At one point, it was necessary to leave the fjords for a while. Whilst outside, on the Pacific ocean, a small pod of whales went by, about six of them. All in all, a magical day
Today is no different. We are at anchor outside a place called Puerto Chacabuco. It is a nowhere place, consisiting of jetties and wharves. The jetties are used by container ships, outloading the principal output of the area, fruit and vegetables. The main town is about 15kms, called Puerto Aysen. It was a port, on the river, until the river silted up.
We took the local public service bus, which was a bit of an experience in itself. The town is mostly single story buildings, and has that 'frontier town' look. Built on the grid system, the main street is one way, and everything goes down it. Every where we went, we felt alittle like being in Gullivers travels, as the locals are not the tallest people in the world.
There is not a lot in the town, except a most unususal church. It is very modern and angular, and finished in 1990, if we read the sign correctly. Up to the first story is concrete. Everything there after is a latticework of timber, covered in what appears to be plywood. The roof is tiled. It is very difficult to describe, though fascinating to visit. Hopefully, after our return, and we can post photographs, it will appear.
It did seem strange to be walking around in shorts and short sleeeves, when all the hills around were covered in snow. Apparently, we have a hit a temperature bounce, and tomorrow is forecast as 12C, and rain, as against todays 24C!!
Black Watch is at anchor in a corner of the fjord, and we have been using the tenders to get to and fro. From the shore, there is a super picture of her against the backdrop of snow capped hills. We are due to sail at 5pm our time(8pm UK time), so will get more splendid vistas for some hours yet.
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